Taveuni. Fiji.
Loved by all who visit, but kept secret by those who stay.
A place to fall in love with.
It has rained in the night and the creek is flowing gently, just enough to fill the natural pool at the base of the second waterfall, surrounded by forest. After swimming underneath the waterfall, wander back up the garden through the giant torch gingers and variegated pandanus to once again sit on the veranda and watch another glorious sunset.
Insiders guide.
Taveuni is known as the Garden Island because of its lush vegetation. But it could also be called the Secret Garden as it is a paradise only a few have discovered. It was also named as one of the top ten islands to live in by Islands.com - and if you were so caught up by the way of life you find on Taveuni and wish to stay a little longer Fiji’s residency requirements if you have a home are easy to comply with. Land values across Taveuni are rising as more people see its advantages.
There is a growing community of foreigners of over 200 who have encouraged the growth of shops stocking familiar groceries and who supply the exclusive resorts dotted down the coast. Can’t find what you want? - have it flown in the next day from Nadi or Suva.
The Fijian government have just recently announced that all stamp duties have been abolished, making life on the island even easier.
What to do on a small tropical island apart from relax? Well, the diving is some of the best in the world (Jacque Cousteau’s son has a dive resort on the other side of the Somosomo Straits), and there is a PADI endorsed diving resort and restaurant two minutes from the house. Here you can book a day’s dive or snorkel, or learn to dive.
About a third of the island is protected within the Bouma National Heritage Park with well maintained walks to some of the most spectacular swimming holes under waterfalls anywhere. The triple Tavoro falls vary from the very easy to the more challenging, and the Lavena walk along white sands and extraordinary rock formations to the double waterfalls with its swimming hole underneath should not be missed by those prepared for an hour’s walk. Hire a guide to take you up into the interior to hidden lakes and spectacular views along paths only the locals know. See the rare tagamaucia (pronounced tangamauthia) flower and the orange dove; both only found in these parts. Pearls are grown here and a visit to the shop is well worth it.
Within Taveuni Estates is a nine hole golf course, just minutes from the house. Spend the day on the other side of the Somosomo straits at one of the resorts on Vanua Levu, being picked up at the quayside by their own launches. Sea fishing and game fishing can be booked from a number of resorts, too.
Getting there.
Getting to the island of Taveuni is an unforgettable experience. From the international airport’s domestic terminal it is one hour fifteen minutes flying over forested hills, sandy beaches and turquoise coral reefs around a myriad of scattered islands. The plane lands on a runway surrounded by coconut palms and taxis to the tiny airport building.
Here you meet your friends before collecting your bags and heading out down the metalled road south. The sea is always on your right and the verdant interior rises up on your left. The road takes you through neat villages, coconut plantations and fields of cassava and dalo.
You can stop at the main shopping centre of Nagara where your everyday needs can be met, as well as stocking up on fresh fruit and veggies in the local street market. Then, a short section of gravel road before arriving at the start of Taveuni Estates (known locally as Soqulu - pronounced ‘Songulu’). Turning off the main road winds you up the hill until you come to Takia Place, a secluded cul-de-sac, at the bottom of which is the grass drive of Wai Savu Rua. You have arrived!
Life at Wai Savu Rua.
Parking the Mitsubishi in the garage under the house, you climb the steps to the front door where the stunning view immediately hits you through the wall to wall glass doors opposite. Your groceries are dumped on the granite work surfaces before being put into the large larder or the capacious fridge/freezer. Then with a cold glass of water from the dispenser on the fridge in hand, you kick your shoes off, feeling the cool travertine marble beneath your feet, and walk through the dining and living room out onto the veranda, settling into one of the chairs to soak in this incredible view and to watch the blue and green iridescent parrots flying to and from the flame tree. Time now to unpack your clothes in the spacious walk-in closet before freshening up.
Will it be a leisurely bath – overlooking the forest and the creek - or a shower? Or share a shower in the big family bathroom with two shower heads? No, perhaps a quick shower and into the cool spa to be pummelled into relaxation.
Now a cool glass of wine on the veranda while you watch the glorious sunset over the Somosomo Straits. After all the travelling, it is off to bed early in the Californian king-size bed, lying listening to the night-time crickets.
After a restful sleep, lie in bed and watch the morning gradually reveal a glowing sky, and the exotic dawn chorus. Breakfast is on the bedroom balcony overlooking the creek having gathered papaya, mangoes, bananas and pineapples from the garden. A dip in the sea, then catch up with neighbours at the dive resort while you organise a dive trip to some of the best coral reefs in the world, or a round of golf.
Back for a lunch of salad from the garden grown and tended by Maria, and discuss any maintenance jobs with the Sefanaia.
It has rained in the night and the creek is flowing gently, just enough to fill the natural pool at the base of the second waterfall, surrounded by forest. After swimming underneath the waterfall, wander back up the garden through the giant torch gingers and variegated pandanus to once again sit on the veranda and watch another glorious sunset.
Well, somebody has to - why not you?
“After a restful sleep, lie in bed and watch the morning gradually reveal a glowing sky, and the exotic dawn chorus. Breakfast is on the bedroom balcony overlooking the creek having gathered papaya, mangoes, bananas and pineapples from the garden.”
— Susie Winter